Hiring a motorcycle in New Caledonia

On one of my trips in 2013, I happened to be headed through New Caledonia and had my international drivers license. I arranged before I arrived to hire a motorcycle for a few days to tour the island. I went straight from the La Tontouta International Airport to Noumea Rider by taxi, watching the traffic and road rules carefully on my way.

The first and most obvious thing to note is that New Caledonia drive on the wrong side of the road (at least compared to Australia) and this sure made things interesting a few times on my trip. I specifically recall an instant of driving around a round about and completely missing the exit twice because (to my eyes), there were oncoming cars on it. It then dawned on me, that I was trying to exit on the wrong side of the road. Once this adjustment was made, things went much smoother.

Noumea Rider is down a little one way lane and up a long driveway on the right. But once you get there, you are in the right place to hire a motorcycle in New Caledonia. The Dude there is a big jovial chap. He and his wife are motorcycle enthusiasts with a shop full of interesting bikes (including a Spider) and paraphernalia. If you didn't bring something, they have it all there for you.

Noumea Rider and Triumph Tiger 800

I had wanted to drive a BMW, like my own GS650, but the only BMW bikes there were huge. I had difficulty with my legs reaching the ground and although I probably could have done it, I decided it was best to have more leg control in a strange country. I didn't want to save myself from doing something stupid only to drop the bike when I needed to stop suddenly. I also didn't know what the roads were like outside Noumea and I felt I needed the ability to use my legs if the road became a little rough. As it happened, this was a smart move. In light of this, I decided the new Triumph Tiger 800 would be better suited to me.

I paid my deposit, plus a per day rate and any additional kms over a cap that was negotiated due to the length I was hiring (about four days). We both checked the bike to make sure there was no damage, but the bike was like new and had low kms on the clock. I had brought my own helmet, gloves, boots and jacket, but if you needed anything, you can get it all there.

Putting my feet up at one of the small bays

The roads are not in good shape, but most of them are covered. Some of the dirt roads are tidal, so be wary of the tide times before you try your luck. These roads are often troublesome as the creeks flow across the dirt (mud) roads and you can come across them around sharp corners. You can usually tell you are approaching as the ground becomes wet and the 4WD tracks are deep.

Dirty boot - a sign of good times

The people are very friendly although I was warned off a specific area of the island by the Gendarme (police). They told me it was violent and not safe for white guys. I initially took their advice, but then chose to ignore it, as this is specifically why I go on these trips - to see the places others do not. Again, I had no problems. Sure, it was a bit rough and you could see the poverty clearly, but the people were very friendly and I shared meals with them, speaking in my limited French and their limited English.

There is no reason why you could not cover the entire island in four days, but take a week to make it leisurely, so you can enjoy some of the magnificent sites. There is a point in the northern part of the island where you can clearly see both sides of the island and it is quite a site. Be warned, though, it is an expensive location and although the place is beautiful, you pay for the luxuries. The bike hire, however, was at good rates.

Leaving Melaka for KL

I didn't get to fully explore Melaka, even this time. I also found myself going around the place repeatedly, especially through the old Indian and Chinese areas. I did, however, get to explore some areas that I had not been able to get to last time, for instance, Jonker's Walk.

Jonker's Walk before the markets start

Jonker's Walk as the markets grow

I parked my bike in a side-street as the markets started to form along Jonker's Walk, but when I saw them growing down side alleys, I rushed back to stop the motorcycle being locked in for the night. When I arrived at my park spot, a market stall had already grown tight around my bike. I had to ask nicely to get the tables moved so I could evacuate the bike to a spot further away from the action.

Pineapple tarts - yum!

Grazing up and down the market stalls, I managed to find a traditional delicacy of the area - pineapple tarts. I love these things, but they can be a little dry, so make sure you have a drink when you gobble through a dozen or so. Don't be discouraged if they tell you they are sold out at the first place you look; there are plenty of stores that stock them. Also make sure you try the chicken rice balls.

There were also guys posing still as statues in various coloured glitter. Some were gold, others silver, others in purple or blue. This is not the same as the body builder statue, but I doubt you would ever get them mixed up.

Gold Glitter Man

Finally after several days in Melaka, we had to depart for Kuala Lumpur. There is still enough for me to return to explore more and I want to check on the status of Pulau Melaka. The trip back was almost completely without GPS and we stopped at a rest stop for a drink, but my partner decided the food looked good enough to eat even though she was not hungry. I just drank three juices and a bottle of water to replace the sweat I had expended. Still no rain, but still lots of smoke.

Departure from the Ramada Plaza Melaka hotel

Smoke haze in Malaysia

I recall back in 2013 the lush views and the clear skies... when it was not raining. I was expecting much more rain as it is the beginning of the monsoon season, but so far in a week, I have had no rain at all. Maybe I am missing it, but I am sure it would clear some of the haze caused by the fires in Indonesia.

The day of arrival

Second day

Third day

I didn't think much of it until I had a bath one evening and although I am used to the sweat and grime of traveling in a hot country, I was amazed at the black ring I left in the bath due to the accumulation of smoke on my skin. I hope it clears for the people who have to live in it. It really makes me realise how lucky Australia is.

Floating Mosque and Kahaani Melaka

We made it to Melaka after about 3 hours drive, including stops to stretch legs, drink and check the GPS.

The Kahaani Melaka

We had booked a night at a wonderful looking place called the Kahaani Melaka in Ayer Keroh about half an hour out of the town of Melaka. This incredible location was once the home of the Malacca State Governor. If we had realised how amazing the place was, we would have tried to stay longer. We didn't even know it had a pool until the following morning when we were taking breakfast.

The pool

The staircase up to the room

Once we had checked in, we were back on the bike to head into the Melaka town itself, about half an hour away. I found I even remembered most of the way without the GPS.

Floating Mosque at night

I first discovered the Masjid Selat Melaka in 2013 when I was marooned in Melaka for a few days. Off in the distance was an amazing tower (the minaret) but I could not get to it until I replaced the battery in my motorcycle. It certainly was in better condition back then and now the paint is flaking on the outside and it looks as if it might have been the target of vandalism since.

The rear of the mosque

The "Floating" mosque is built on the artificial island of Pulau Melaka on stilts over the sea of Melaka and opened in November 2006. When the water is high, it looks as if the mosque is floating on the water. The mosque mixes cultural building techniques with the Middle Eastern central dome and the four Malaysian turrets around the perimetre.

On sunset

I noticed when I first visited that the mosque was being surrounded by some sort of Arab City and I was hoping to see it populated and vibrant, but it seemed to just be in a more advanced state of building. I am sure when it is completed, it will be a wonderful cultural icon, but it just seems to be taking so long. I will drop back in again to see how it is going when I pass through next time.

Starting in Kuala Lumpur

With a little negotiation, I managed to secure a Kawasaki Versys 650 through Mig from Ride Adventure - Kuala Lumpur. The negotiation was more about the mechanics of how we were going to do it. Mig gave me a call to let me know he would pick me up at 1500. I got my kit ready.

Basic riding gear

I had to leave my wife to enjoy her Swasana day spa at Impiana Hotel to go and talk motorcycles with the guys - it's hard, I know. The smoke in Kuala Lumpur had closed schools for consecutive days and it was very heavy. I could feel the dryness in my throat and the redness in my eyes.

Kuala Lumpur Tower (and smoke)

Petronas Towers (and smoke)

Mig drove me to the back of Batu Caves to take copies of my International Drivers License, my Australian Drivers License, and my passport. Then I signed a copy of the rental agreement outlining the basic rules and liabilities, acknowledging that motorcycling held inherent risks. Finally, I was introduced to the motorcycle. I checked the indicators and break lights, and the bike was in reasonably good condition (although it was clear someone had previously dropped it - I had no intention of contributing). Compared to many of the bikes in Malaysia it is large at 650cc.

Leading me back to the hotel, Mig set off through the Kuala Lumpur traffic and I quickly remembered the key aspects of driving a motorcycle in Malaysia. These include:

• Watching in your mirrors for cars that assume you will get out of their way.
• Riding on the white line between lanes or on footpaths is perfectly normal.
• Horns are often used to let someone know you are there rather than to warn prior to abuse.
• Cars expect you to filter through lanes and are often annoyed if you don't.
• Lane markers and road signs seem optional.

I don't necessarily follow these unwritten rules of the road in Malaysia, but I do try to drive safely for all road users, especially myself and try in all instances to follow the road rules and signs.

Packed and ready to go

The following day we left for Melaka. I managed to get us out of Kuala Lumpur and headed to Melaka without the use of my GPS, something I feel proud of. I certainly needed it later on arriving in Ayer Keroh and navigating Melaka.

Back in Malaysia - 2015

A few years ago, I brought my own bike into Malaysia via Singapore to do some driving around this beautiful and friendly country. Since then, I met my wife from the Philippines and we got married in her country, but that marriage is not recognised in Australia, so we are jumping through the visa hurdles. Recently, we found out she is pregnant, which is wonderful news, but has complicated some of those visa hurdles.

Last week, we got notified that a decision on her Prospective Marriage Visa was about to be made and she would need to leave the country immediately (if not, sooner) before that decision could be made. I have a full time job, and my poor wife is suffering through mid-term pregnancy, so she can feel very ill and have bad headaches, and sometimes be very vague and say and do strange things. It is not just her, many women during pregnancy have these types of symptoms.

As this would be the last time (for a while) we would both get to do a motorcycle tour, and she had always wanted to see Peninsular Malaysia, we thought it might be fun to hire a motorcycle in Singapore or Malaysia and do some sight-seeing.

Easier said than done!

Firstly, a big shout out to the friendly and professional chaps at Big Loud Rides in Singapore. When I contacted them, they came back immediately with a good price on a very nice Harley Davidson. If this is your thing, then you should really give them a go and have a chat. I am not really into Harley's - they are heavy bikes and I am a small guy. The bike they offered me was more than double the wet weight of my BMW GS 650, and that scared the hell out of me with a pregnant wife on the back. But if you are into Harley's and want someone who is really knowledgeable about the area, routes, and challenges, then I highly recommend them.

Also, in planning the trip, the cheapest flights were to Kuala Lumpur, so we took them. Strangely, the flights to KL via Singapore were cheaper than the flights to Singapore. I wasn't sure if I bailed at the Singapore stop over, if I would be branded a terrorist, so we decided the best plan was to follow the plan.

I found out that the MotoGP is being held at Sepang International Circuit the weekend we were going to be in Malaysia. I spoke to a few friends about rental options in Malaysia. These were the options I was given:

1. Ride Adventure- Kuala Lumpur
2. Ride Malaysia
3. KL EZ Harley Davidson Bikes

When I got into contact with KL EZ and Ride Malaysia, they came back within 24 hours to let me know they had all their fleet booked out due to the MotoGP. This was quite understandable... and how I found out the MotoGP was on.

I know, I know... I am an avid motorcyclist and I didn't realise it was on. I didn't even realise it was on in Australia! I am more of a solo motorcyclist. I ride by myself, not in groups. I don't care about the new bikes racing, or who won, or what models performed well. I ride for the experience and the exploration and the fun. But I also understand that a lot of people DO care, so I got a little worried that I might have to resort to public transport.

From a personal perspective, I don't like public transport in foreign countries. I don't like trains; I don't like buses; I don't like taxis; I don't like rickshaws, tricycles, or jeepneys. I am sure my readers will understand. I like motorcycles - preferably my own. It's like other peoples kids. No they are not cute and they are not adorable... but my own are.

Using Facebook, I spoke to a chap called Mig from Ride Adventure - Kuala Lumpur and he told me immediately that his fleet was fully booked in this time period, but that he might be able to figure something out. He has offered me about half a dozen bikes that didn't quite meet my requirements. Most were bigger bikes than I wanted (FJR 1300); others were without any panier supports (FZ1, KTM 850SM), so I would have to choose the backpack or the wife and I am probably going to get in trouble for even suggesting that was a choice.

So, here I sit, in a hotel in Kuala Lumpur, waiting on a call back from Mig about access to a Versys 650. It has a rear top case, but I have asked for the case to be removed so I can use the strut for the backpack. These guys are all very busy organising for the MotoGP this weekend, so I understand I am a little fish in a big f#@%ing pond.

More to come.

This is my first post in a while, and I apologise for that. I have heaps of posts drafted but none posted. If you want more, hit me up in the comments.