Johor Bahru

I came through Johor Bahru a number of times on my trip. The first after I accidentally came over the Tuas Checkpoint into Malaysia (failing to get my carnet stamped on entry) and stopped at a 7-Eleven to get some directions through driving rain to Mersing. The second, the next day, I came back from Mersing to Johor Bahru to the Malaysian Customs complex to get my carnet stamped as required.

Unfortunately, I got myself very lost in Johor Bahru and unable to get to any of the sights I had intended, like the Sultan Abu Bakar Museum and the Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliamman Glass Temple, among other temples in the area. I had also intended to get a look at the South China Sea, but the chaos and my poor navigation left little time in my day before I had to get to Melaka, so I got to wonder in amazement at the city, stopping only to turn around or ask for directions.

I stopped at Johor Bahru for a few days toward the end of my trip before heading north again to Penang as I waited for a contract to come through that would have seen me in Singapore and back to Australia promptly, but it didn't come through that week (or, indeed, the next). This time, while I waited, I took some time to travel out to Desaru Beach after being told it would only be 20 minutes drive. Even on my maps before I left it looked more like an our and a half, but I am in it for the ride as well, so an hour and a half did not daunt me. The weather tried to.

Desaru Beach, Johor - looking North West

The drive to Desaru Beach, interrupted only by toll plaza and a stop for fuel, took just over an hour but the brown signposts were easy to follow. The bridge across the Sungai Johor (Johor River) is impressive and rose up from the plantations a good distance before it towered over me across some of the cleanest water I had seen in Malaysia. The small road out to the beach itself had a fair amount of traffic on it - almost as much as the highway, and the Public Beach was difficult to find among the private resort beaches, but my MYR$1 handed to the parking security was well spent - my motorcycle was there when I got back.

Desaru Beach, Johor - looking North East

While I walked up and down the beach, a young man carrying a small round faced little girl talked to me. He is in the photo above on the right. A local from Bandar Penawar, he had been in the area all his life and spoke with a lisp, which made his stilted English very difficult to understand. He offered me a meal with his family and although I gracefully refused initially, he insisted and so I sat down with a family of about a dozen from grandparent to babies for a talk. No one else in the group seemed to speak English, so the young man tried to translate with his speech impediment making the entire experience surreal and quite challenging at times.

Desaru Beach, Johor - looking South East

The grandmother gave me a bowl of something that I think was a local laksa - a fishy broth with noodles and other things that were unrecognisable and did not translate. It tasted great, if a little hot, but I ate every mouthful to the joy of the family who asked me many questions about myself, my trip and Australia. We even spoke of politics in the local area briefly before the grandmother explained that talking politics in Malaysia was like undressing in front of a stranger - an interesting analogy, but I didn't push it any further.

They also pointed out to me that I was the only white guy on the beach, which I had not even noticed, but they were correct. The young man told me that it was an honour for his family to have hosted a foreigner and that many of the other local families were jealous of them. They would not accept any reimbursement for lunch. The trip back, much faster as I knew the roads and pushed the speed up a little more into the 130kph, I was stopped briefly by a police roadblock but waived through when they saw I was Australian.

I came back later when I was heading home to Australia and tried to get to the museum (which was under renovations and inaccessible to tourists) and the glass temple (which I tried to navigate to for several hours, but finally gave up only to see it on the opposite side of the road with no way to turn around). I will have to make another attempt to see these the next time I pass through, perhaps in October.