Kuala Lumpur

Kuala Lumpur is a cyberpunk city, mixing incredible clusters of buildings with affluence and massive infrastructure that creaks under the strain while ramshackle buildings lean against each other in the shadows of impressive architecture, like the Petronis Twin Towers.

Night skyline showing Petronis Twin Towers

I first drove in to Kuala Lumpur from Kuantan and could see the smog and haze as I approached, obscuring the city skyline until I came quite close, but then out from the grey familiar landmarks appeared. Even before I arrived in the city, I recognised the towers.

An example of a good day with minimal haze

On my way into Kuala Lumpur, I stopped at one of the rest stops to stretch my legs and found myself the object of a bus-load of Chinese tourists who decided I was amazing and crazy to be doing my trip. They all lined up to take individual photos with me by the motorcycle, and all wanted me to put my arm around them and give a "thumbs up" signal. I joked later on my Facebook page that because I had not shaved, they might have mistaken me for Charley Boorman.

Amazing architecture with background landmarks

This comment led to talking to him two days later after being introduced to Maznah Zolkifni, an intelligent and dynamic young Malaysian actress who had also just spoken to Charley while he was in Kuala Lumpur filming his next documentary. I managed to get contact details for is producer and director and, although there had been some discussion (when I had been mistaken as a local journalist) that I might meet him, a massive downpour of rain that he had been riding in meant that he really just wanted to relax and get back to his hotel. Having been caught in a similar rain attack days earlier, I really did understand, so instead, we spoke for about 15 minutes on the phone. It was the most rewarding experiences of Kuala Lumpur and a real buzz to talk to the legend.

I drove through Kuala Lumpur several times and got lost almost every single one. The GPS was no help at all as it did not differentiate between the upper or lower road. I found myself getting caught on the wrong one regularly. On my first entry to the city, I managed to get myself lost in Little India as a market sprang up around me blocking roads that I had initially driven down. I felt the markets growing around me and it took me a lot of effort to get myself out of the lanes shrinking like clogged arteries.


Front of the National Mosque in Kuala Lumpur



Kuala Lumpur's National Mosque

I raced out on foot one afternoon before the weather closed in to see the National Mosque, which I did not find as spectacular as the mosque in Kuantan, but it was certainly larger. I didn't get a chance to look inside as it had been closed for prayers. This seems to be the time I turn up at mosques to take a look at them, actually, at almost all temples.

Islamic Arts Museum

Instead, I found the Islamic Arts Museum with an excellent arms and armour, tapestries, calligraphy as well as a Chinese vase display. It took me some time to find the entrance, but once I figured that out, it cost only MYR$10 for as long as I wanted to roam around and look at things. Although most photography was prohibited in the museum, and the displays were incredible, the ceilings were amazing.

Roof inside the Islamic Arts Museum

Inverted dome inside the Islamic Arts Museum

On my way back from the National Mosque and the Islamic Arts Museum, I spotted some street art on the railway line. I crossed the road to take a quick photo of the spot I had found, which suggests there is probably some other stuff in Kuala Lumpur that I just didn't find. Although the image is interesting, the more exciting story is that minutes later, I had two guys on a scooter attempt to snatch the camera off my shoulder, failing miserably and ending up hurting themselves in the process.

Street art example in Kuala Lumpur